This is only a general guide
and is not sponsored by Petco; prices are estimates only.
Glass or Acrylic- Starts at $45
Larger tanks
(30-55 gallons for novice)
Larger
tanks will give more latitude for errors and greater time to catch them
To start, 4 gallons per 1 inch of fish then, after
three or more months of stable operation 1” of fish to 2 gallons of water.
Additional method of tank stocking calculation is 1”
of fish per 50 square inches of surface area at the top of the tank. This will give the fish some space to spread
out in comfortably. Most fish will live
on the bottom anyway.
Undergravel Filter- Starts at $15
This is a grate that harbors a layer of highly oxygenated water with lots of beneficial bacteria beneath the gravel. These have been around for centuries and are vary effective if kept clean of debris. This means weekly or bi-weekly gravel vacuuming! These work well but require high maintenance. Here’s a neat trick, run your powerhead backwards through an undergravel filter. This method allows for maximum beneficial bacteria growth in the grate and no clogging! This method keeps the rocks really clean and minimizes gravel cleanings conducted by you. This method will also require the use of a back mounted power filter to clean the debris from the water blown up our of the grate.
Power Filter- Starts at $31
3 Step systems with bio wheel is best but here is the basics:
Step 1 filter
media (like a foam pad) for large particles and pump for water movement
Step 2 Activated
Carbon for Ammonia reduction (usually incorporated into filter pad)
Look
at stuff like Chemi-pure or Biozorb, these are carbon packs that last 6 mo.
Step 3 Highly oxygenated moist surface area for biological bacteria growth for ammonia removal. This will turn the remaining fish waste Ammonia into Nitrate and Nitrite. This can come in the form of an under-gravel filter, bio-wheel, bio-media, fluidized sand bed, or a block of foam. The bio wheel has the lowest maintenance and the best results of all of these. I recommend the Emperor 400.
Protein Skimmer- about $80 to set up.
This type of filtration removes fish waste before it begins to decompose. It acts by creating foam froth in a riser tube that terminates in a collection cup that is cleaned weekly. This system can be expensive to set up. It requires the skimmer, an air pump, and a lot of patience to set up. I recommend the Berlin system.
Powerheads- about $30 ea
These give your tank a current and will keep the water moving. Also, if you choose to run an under gravel filter, you will need a powerhead in large aquariums above 20 gallons in volume. Another neat trick, run your powerhead backwards through an undergravel filter. This method allows for maximum beneficial bacteria growth in the grate and no clogging! This method keeps the rocks really clean and minimizes gravel cleanings conducted by you.
General rules of thumb for
filtration systems:
Usually 6 gallons per hour
flow rate per gallon of tank water
Consider monthly
cost to replace filters- usually $3-$8 a month
Temperature Control
Water must stay between 76 and 84 degrees (may require cold air conditioning in summer to stay there!) Sealed, completely submergible is safest with 5 watts per gallon power rating.
I recommend the Visa-therm
heater system
Thermometer- starts at $1 and will tell
you the temp of the water.
Provides mount for light and
keeps water from evaporating quickly
Will want natural light bulb-
fluorescent, marine style with atinic blue color
Other benefit of a hood is that it may look professional enough that a canopy is not required to dress up the tank.
Glass Top- Starts at $15
Keeps fish and water in and critters out. Downside is that you must purchase separate light fixture. This will add flexibility but will require a canopy to dress up the tank appearance.
Optional but usually $200 to $400 for both
Will make tank a lot more professional looking and will conceal components. Remember, when choosing a stand, the aquarium will weigh approximately 10lb per gallon!
Salt (usually ½
cup per gallon) Usually $16 in salt is enough to get started
I
recommend Instant Ocean
Ammonia Enzymes- Starts at
$6
Removes toxic ammonia from water with enzymes that work instantly of ammonia while tanking is setting up with a bacteria culture. I recommend Amquel.
Water
Conditioner- Starts at $6
Adds protective slime coat to fish and conditions new water by removing chlorine and other toxic metals. I recommend Novaqua.
Anti bacterial and Fin conditioner- Starts at $5
Melafix is an excellent cure for just about anything. It won’t harm inverts and it is safe for all fish. These is an extract of Tea Tree oil and speeds the healing process and prevents infections to wounds on fish.
Ich and Fungus Remover- Starts at $6
Formaldehyde based malachite green is safest to use. It will not harm invertebrates of fish if used correctly. I recommend Rid-Ich it is a good practice to add whenever new fish are added to system.
Specific Gravity
gauge- $12
Indicates
Salt content in water
Usually
about 1.021-1.023
Salt Water
Bacteria- $5
Can be in the form of liquid, living sand, or dehydrated. Living sand is best but liquid will start within a week. I recommend Cycle or any living sand.
Water Test kit-
Starts at $14
Tests
for Ammonia and PH are the minimum.
Additionally, kits that test for Nitrate, Acidity,
Alkalinity, and Nitrite are best
Starts at $1 a pound and up. You will want 5lbs per square foot of bottom area (long or tall tanks) or 0.75 lb per gallon for normal tanks. Best are the natural substrates that you would find in the ocean. They maintain the PH of the aquarium in the proper level. I recommend Dolomite, Argonite, living sand, crushed coral, ground shells, or large grain sand in marine systems.
Keeps you from frying and adds additional socket space under the tank.
Gravel Vacuum
Starts at $6 and siphons
crud out of the bottom of the tank using water pressure.
Fish Net
Starts at $4 and is used to
catch fish. Two are better than one!
Algae scrubber
Starts at $9 and is the only
real way to remove unsightly algae.
Rock or
Coral-Usually $15 per large piece
Backdrop-Usually
film starts at $2 a foot
About $8 will last about 2 months for the frozen variety. Remember, the fish have stomachs about the size of their eyes and don’t need to be fed more than that per sitting. Two small meals a day is best. I recommend that you choose the diets that fit the nature of your fish. Mix up the variety your fish eat also. What kind of fish do you have? Carnivore, herbivore, humanvore (sharks).
Hardy, docile, tank raised fish-Probably $30 in fish
to start is a good estimate
Clowns and damsels are best cheap fish to start
with. Expect to loose a few in normal
systems over the first 6 weeks.
Other Considerations for Tank Setup:
Leave room completely around the tank, you will have to clean salt off the outside of the tank due to salt creep. Also makes access to pumps easier.
A Python or buckets makes the water source easier to bring to the tank. A python is a long hose system that can hook up to your faucet and drain and fill your tank easily.
Clean everything with freshwater prior to using.
Change your water regularly during tank start up and
normal operation. It is good practice
to change 20% of the water every week for the first 6 weeks of new tank
operation and then, after the tank is stable, change 25% of the water
monthly. This is the only way to remove
the bi-products of biological filtration processes that convert toxic ammonia
into less toxic Nitrate and Nitrite unless you plan on starting a kelp forest
and mass algae growth.
Change the replaceable carbon pads in your filter
monthly and keep them clean during normal operation. The carbon in most filters is good for about a month. However, the pads tend to clog with leftover
food during the month and will require occasional rinsing to keep up water
flow.
If there is algae build up in tank, scrub off algae from the glass with algae scrubber. Do not add chemicals intended for use in freshwater to remove algae. They will KILL your fish! There are no good chemicals available for marine systems to remove algae. It is a normal part of the system and it means the tank is healthy. For a less work intensive cleaning method, invest in a bunch of snails and hermit crabs. The right kind can do wonders!
Also, keeping sunlight exposure to less than 9 hours a day, water temp down, and algae food sources limited will reduce algae growth. Algae food sources are Phosphate, which is found in fish food, cheap carbon filters, and fish waste. Also, algae lives off of Nitrate and Nitrite, which is a very good plant fertilizer! If your Nitrate and Nitrite levels are high, algae have an abundant food source! Change the water regularly to remove the food source!
Salinity in the tank should be between 1.021 and 1.023 on the hydrometer. To lower, add freshwater, to raise, add aquarium salt.
Should be
between 8.1 and 8.4
Ammonia should be zero or as low as possible. Ammonia production is the result of fish and food waste decomposition. Ammonia levels will remain low if regular filter maintenance is accomplished, aerobic bacteria are thriving in the biological portion of your filtration system, and regular water changes are conducted. If it is high, addition of enzymes to reduce the Ammonia to less toxic Nitrate and Nitrite should be accomplished and a water change of 30% shortly thereafter.
Temperature should be between 76 and 84 degrees. This range will keep oxygen levels at acceptable limits. The warmer the water, the lower the oxygen content.
Don’t over or under feed! Feed the fish what they will consume in 3-5 minutes. 2 small meals a day is best but a single meal will suffice. Ideally, skip one day of feeding per week to give the fish a chance to clean out their digestive systems. Also, keep in mind that the stomach of a fish is about the same size as its eyes. Also, different fish have different nutritional requirements. Do some research on your fish!
Test the water in your tank every couple of days for the first 6 weeks of operation. You want ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite to be zero. If they peak a little, don’t be alarmed, just take measures to reduce the levels such as water changes. After the tank is running smoothly, test the water as you see fit; weekly, or monthly. However, know when your fish are healthy or not!
Buy a book on Marine Aquariums. There are a ton of resources out there so try and make use of them! Everyone is trying to help you!